Toronto Islands

An absolute must for any visitor to Toronto, and a great way for those of us who live here to reconnect with our city, is to see the city from the water. While there are several options for accomplishing this, I highly recommend a visit to the Toronto Islands. While the islands offer many different things, here's my favourite way to experience it. Note that I don't usually have kids in tow when I head over there, so if you're taking your little ones, this may not be the best itinerary.

Start by getting yourself to the Toronto Islands Ferry Docks at the foot of Bay Street. The ferries switched to their summer schedule at the end of May so service is pretty frequent. A round-trip ticket costs $7 for adults, with reduced rates for students, seniors and children. On weekends in the summer the wait time for ferries, especially if there is an event on the island, can be over an hour, so if you can go during the week, you'll find the wait a lot shorter and the island far less busy. Plus evenings are a lovely time to go, so if it's a choice between 6 pm on Thursday and 1 pm on Saturday, go on Thursday. The ferries run quite late so getting back won't be an issue and you'll have the added bonus of seeing the city all lit up. If you really do want to go during the peak weekend time and the lines are crazy, consider taking a water taxi. Toronto Water Taxi operates from York Street Slip, which is just a short walk west from the ferry terminal. They charge $10 per adult each way, $5 per child, but have a $30 minimum per boat per trip (not usually a problem on busy weekends). As you are not required to show a ticket when boarding the ferries on the island, you can save yourself the return taxi fare by hopping on the ferry.

At the terminal, there are 3 different ferries, going to different parts of the island (although off-season they will sometimes combine service to Hanlan's Point and Ward's Island). I recommend taking the Hanlan's Point ferry, then walking the length of the island and taking the Ward's Island ferry home. This provides two main advantages: 1) as Hanlan's Point is the furthest west, it gives you a nice long ride along the harbour providing you with the best views of the city, plus as the dock at Hanlan's Point is very close to the island airport, you get an up-close view of the planes taking-off and landing, and 2) walking the length of the island is a great way to see it. The distance, depending on how much you meander and explore, is just over 5 km.

Each section of the islands has a different personality. I love the tranquility of Hanlan's Point. There are big green spaces for picnics, playing ball or just relaxing, and as most families flock to Centre Island, it's usually pretty quiet. The main path offers lovely views of water and wild, as well as some great glimpses of the city. Many of the trees, including the lilac bushes (my favourite!), are huge and if you're interested in trees, you can pick up a brochure for a self-guided tour to trees across the island, or print out a copy from The Canadian Tree Tours website.

The most lively part of Hanlan's Point are the beaches. There is both a clothing optional and clothing mandatory beach and they are big gorgeous stretches of sand, with the bonus of a view of the city. If you have concerns about the water quality, you should know that Toronto takes part in the international Blue Flag program, which is administered by the Foundation for Environmental Education in Denmark and which sets international standards for clean, safe beaches. The City had to be evaluated against 27 criteria and Hanlan's Point beach, as well as Gibraltar Point, Centre Island and Ward's beaches were all granted Blue Flag status (plus some other city beaches not on the islands). Water samples are taken daily at each beach to ensure continued safety, and results are posted online - so check the site, then go ahead and jump in!

As you get closer to the middle of the island, it starts to get more built up. You'll pass the Gibraltar Point lighthouse, the oldest surviving lighthouse on the Great Lakes, as well as the Gibraltar Point Centre for the Arts, the water filtration plant, and the island school. On your right, sticking out on the lake side, is the Pier, which I just love. If you have the time and the energy, you can detour inland and cross over to Centre Island. Centreville, the amusement park, is the big draw here, especially if you have kids. Even if you don't, I highly recommend taking the Sky Ride. It gives you a bird's-eye view of a small sliver of the park and it's relaxing and fun. Right next door to Centreville is Far Enough Farm, one of my favourite places on the island. There is a limited number of animals here but it's a great space. Like Riverdale Farm and High Park Zoo, it was facing closure due to budget cuts, but acceptance of a recent donation by the operator of Centreville will keep it open awhile longer. There has also been an offer to match funds from private donations, so if you'd like to make a tax-deductible donation, visit the Parks and Recreation website. If you happened to bring a picnic along, Centre Island has some of the best spots for picnicking with a view of the city. 

If you want to continue your trek to Ward's Island, you'll have to retrace your steps back to the lake side of the island, as there is no connection between Centre Island and Ward's Island (or, if you're tired, you can always head for the Centre Island ferry dock and return to the city). If you continue your walk, you will soon have a choice to take the main paved path to Ward's Island, or veer off to the boardwalk. While both have their appeal, I generally prefer the boardwalk, especially on hot days - there's lots of shade and usually a wonderful breeze off the water. You'll know you're getting close to the end of your walk when you begin to see houses - Ward's Island has a small but vibrant residential community.

If you have some time to kill before the ferry, consider stopping in to the Island Cafe, just steps from the dock. They now have a liquor license so you can celebrate your visit to the island with a nice cold drink.

Toronto Music Garden

If you enjoy music, and the great outdoors, Toronto’s Music Garden is the place for you. Located on the waterfront between Spadina and Bathurst, the garden was designed by famed cellist Yo Yo Ma and landscape designer Julie Moir. Its various sections are meant to be a representation, in landscape, of Bach’s Suite No. 1 in G Major for unaccompanied cello, BWV 1007. To discover what this means, wander the garden, and if you need some help with the interpretation, visit the website for a description, or consider taking a guided tour. They are available free of charge on Wednesday at 11 am (until September 28) and Thursdays at 5:30 pm (until September 8). Hand-held audio players providing commentary by the park designers and featuring excerpts of music can be rented for $6 from Marina Quay West Office, on the pier directly south of the Garden. Private group tours can also be arranged but a small fee and reservations are required.

Being a Music Garden, there is of course, music to be had. This year marks the 12^th year of Summer Music in the Garden. Free concerts are held in the amphitheatre most Thursdays at 7 pm and Sundays at 4pm, and it’s quite an experience. During quiet moments, the sounds of planes taking off from the Island airport, and the rumble of streetcars on Queens Quay are reminders that this beautiful space is surrounded by an active city, but then when the music swells, you’re transported once again to somewhere magical.

The amphitheatre has limited bench seating and you’re encouraged to bring your own chairs or blankets. Myself, I like the grass, and each rise is edged with stone, so even if the day has been a little damp, there’s a relatively dry spot to park your bottom. For this year’s schedule, refer to their website, or check the Free in Toronto calendar below for the next concert date.